Four Fall Projects, Two Classes and a Few Sewing Discoveries

From a worker jacket to a bespoke shirt draft, here is what I've been sewing and learning this season

September and October flew by, and I can hardly believe we’ve already landed in November. Between sewing projects, classes, and a few extracurricular studies, I’ve been keeping busy! Here’s a round-up of my recent makes and what’s been inspiring me lately.

Let’s start with the sewing projects.

AI generated studio flat lays of my recent makes.

Worker Jacket
I meant to this make this last year but missed that narrow window when the weather only requires a light jacket. I was determined to squeeze it in this year.

This jacket took more fitting than I anticipated but I should have known better since this is a “unisex” pattern which usually means it was drafted for men. I learned all the adjustments I’d need if I ever choose to work with another unisex pattern, but I’ll likely pass on that going forward.

The sewing was not difficult and Merchant & Mills provides a great video showing the “tricky bits.” I outsourced the exterior buttonholes to Fabulous Buttonholes, which made my life easier. Now that the jacket is finished I can have the final buttonhole added to the top. Even without it, I have been wearing this jacket a lot and no one has noticed.

Fabric: Blackbird Fabrics, Teak Brushed Bull Denim
Pattern: Merchant & Mills The Paynter
Size: S (for layering room)
Alterations: Quite a few; ½” round back adjustment which led to adding ⅜” to the collar, narrowed shoulders by ⅜”, raised armhole by ⅜”, shortened sleeve by an additional 1” beyond recommendation for women, shortened elbow patch by 1” and moved it up on the sleeve by 1 ½” to go along with sleeve shortening, shortened body as recommended for women, adjusted button holes and button placement as recommended for women, moved waist tabs up 1 ⅝” to match where my waist is located, swapped front buttonholes and placket to right side and interfaced the front placket (not included in the instructions).

If I make this again, I’ll reduce the upper pocket width to match the narrower proportions in the smaller sizes. I need to mock up pockets on the toile next time!

Stylish Sweatshirt
As I wrote in my August projects recap, I had been wanting a sweatshirt with some interesting style lines. I decided to try the Daughter Judy Wren Fleece pattern and I was not disappointed! I chose a fabric as close as possible to what was used for one of the designer’s samples, but I sized down because I don’t like too much volume.

While making this I learned that my machine’s chainstitch does not love sewing through all those thick layers of French terry. Noted.

Fabric: Koshtex, Ash White Cotton French Terry Knit
Pattern: Daughter Judy Wren Fleece
Size: XS
Alterations: I altered the neck band and sleeve cuffs for ribbing.

Blue Stripe Button Up Shirt
I have said it before but I will say it again, I love shirt making! I was lucky to find this fabric, which is a close match to the inspiration shirt by Tibi. This fabric is from a Swiss mill and was wonderful to work with.

While I kind of regret making this before taking the bespoke shirt making class (more on that below), I still love the finished shirt. It confirms my love for making timeless, classic pieces.

Fabric: CEGO Swiss mill cotton shirting
Pattern: Closet Core Jenna Shirt
Size: XS
Alterations: None aside from modifying the seam allowances for easier construction, creating separate interfacing pattern pieces and making half pattern pieces whole for easier stripe matching.

Dressed Up Denim Skirt
I needed a skirt for lunch at a fancy restaurant. I wanted denim but it had to feel elevated. To make the skirt look more “designer” I treated the raw hem with Fraycheck so it would resemble a laser cut finish. I think it works! I can always go back and hem it later if I change my mind, but so far so good.

Fabric: Washed and bleached denim from stash (similar here)
Pattern: BurdaStyle 12/2024 #119
Size: 36.
Alterations: I had to size down from my usual BurdaStyle size, possibly due to the denim’s twill weave. I’m glad I fitted this because I plan to make it again in a caramel faux leather.

Other Sewing Related Events and News

· Bespoke Shirt Making Course
At the end of September, I started weekly Zoom sessions for The Tailoring Academy’s bespoke shirt making course and I am loving every minute of it! Even though I have made many shirts I am learning a lot. My bespoke shirt draft turned out beautifully and it’s the only shirt pattern I will use from now on. They’ve just announced an online session starting in January if you are interested.

· Alterations Workshop
I took my second alterations workshop with Lauren Taylor at Pintuck & Purl in New Hampshire and I could not recommend it more. I used to dread alterations and now I actually look for garments to tweak. If you are in Baltimore or San Diego you have a chance to catch one of her workshops this year (info is on her website). Her jeans class is also excellent and is what kickstarted my jeans making journey.

· Sewing in the News
In case you missed it, the New York Times has declared that sewing is cool again. My response: when was it not?

· ThreadLoop App
Are you on ThreadLoop? They recently added a “body double” feature that lets you find sewists with similar measurements. It’s another great way to visualize how a garment might look on your figure. I have been enjoying trying out the app lately and you can find me there as orange projects.

· Currently Reading
I have been reading the book “The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World” which is a fascinating look at how fabric shaped history. I had no idea that textiles were so influential in the development of modern financial institutions and chemistry. Highly recommended if you enjoy history.

I hope everyone’s fall/winter sewing is off to a strong start! I’ll share my plans for the cold weather months next time.

Happy sewing!

Norma