I just finished a pair in 185g linen from Merchant and Mills. I like them, but they feel strange when i move. Like all the other bias garments I've made, i don't fnd them very comfortable. I used her layout. They hang well, and I like the shape. I too used tricot- so much more invisible! And I made my own bias waistband cord, but I sewed it into a rouleau - I dislike the pattern method and very rarely sew straps or anything in that way. I picked up a great trick for joining elastic which is bulk free. You butt the edge up against each other on a piece of fabric and zigzag them to the fabric and trim it. I use scraps of poplin. I started using it when I discovered Banrol non roll waistband elastic - It's fantastic, but the trimmed edges would sometimes annoy me through a looser fabric like linen. The fabric join stops that...
Thank you for sharing all of this! I agree about the movement. The bias cut gives the pants a lovely drape, but they do feel different as you move. That elastic join method is such a great tip. Butting the ends together over a scrap of poplin sounds like a wonderfully neat finish. I’ll definitely keep that in mind for future projects!
It is - I have no idea where I picked it up. It can make all the difference to the movement of elastic in a channel. Norma, I am curious - why Mara thread? I only find normal Gutermann and Amann here in Malta and buy other threads online - cotton, elastic, silk, and serger thread. Could you tell us why you prefer it, please?
PS I have most of your bra patterns and rate them really highly.
I like the Gutermann Mara 100 for all purpose construction because as a polyester thread it has good strength with a bit of elasticity and it resists things like shrinking and fading. It is also readily available in the U.S. in many colors and it is also designed to be dust and lint free. I am sure other brands such as Amann have an equivalent.
Thanks for this. Ruth Collins (@ithacamaven) and the MPMW substack group have been working on bias cut pant using the TDCO method. Your review is really helpful for those who are planning to make them.
Your post was very interesting Norma and the pants do look great. The bias would make them figure-hugging along the sides and the bulk of an elastic waist seemed to ease in. Making notes while working on a project are very helpful, thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I think you’re exactly right. The bias cut gives them a closer, more fluid fit through the sides and the waist smooths in more than I expected. I’m glad you found the notes helpful!
Thank you Norma for your detailed notes on the sewing project itself, but my friends and I are wondering more about the bias. What happens in the crotch area? Normally this ends up being almost bias, and can stretch out a bit. I see from your layout that it becomes more straight grain,
is this part of the strange feeling when wearing? Did you hang the pants before hemming? I usually cut wider seam allowances for bias, what about you?
The pants look great on you, so we’re very interested!
Thank you, Faye! I haven’t noticed any stretching in the crotch area. As you observed, the most curved portion of the crotch seam runs closer to the straight grain and seems quite stable.
I think the strange feeling comes instead from having two legs moving independently on the bias in this midweight linen. A more fluid fabric, such as cupro, might move more easily and feel different.
I hemmed the pants immediately, and the hem has remained level. My thinking was that pant legs would be less susceptible to uneven dropping than something with a wider sweep, such as a skirt. If anything changes with wear, I can always adjust the hem later.
I used the pattern’s standard seam allowances rather than cutting them wider.
I just finished a pair in 185g linen from Merchant and Mills. I like them, but they feel strange when i move. Like all the other bias garments I've made, i don't fnd them very comfortable. I used her layout. They hang well, and I like the shape. I too used tricot- so much more invisible! And I made my own bias waistband cord, but I sewed it into a rouleau - I dislike the pattern method and very rarely sew straps or anything in that way. I picked up a great trick for joining elastic which is bulk free. You butt the edge up against each other on a piece of fabric and zigzag them to the fabric and trim it. I use scraps of poplin. I started using it when I discovered Banrol non roll waistband elastic - It's fantastic, but the trimmed edges would sometimes annoy me through a looser fabric like linen. The fabric join stops that...
Thank you for sharing all of this! I agree about the movement. The bias cut gives the pants a lovely drape, but they do feel different as you move. That elastic join method is such a great tip. Butting the ends together over a scrap of poplin sounds like a wonderfully neat finish. I’ll definitely keep that in mind for future projects!
It is - I have no idea where I picked it up. It can make all the difference to the movement of elastic in a channel. Norma, I am curious - why Mara thread? I only find normal Gutermann and Amann here in Malta and buy other threads online - cotton, elastic, silk, and serger thread. Could you tell us why you prefer it, please?
PS I have most of your bra patterns and rate them really highly.
I like the Gutermann Mara 100 for all purpose construction because as a polyester thread it has good strength with a bit of elasticity and it resists things like shrinking and fading. It is also readily available in the U.S. in many colors and it is also designed to be dust and lint free. I am sure other brands such as Amann have an equivalent.
I am so happy to hear you enjoy my bra patterns!
Thanks Norma 💜
Thanks for this. Ruth Collins (@ithacamaven) and the MPMW substack group have been working on bias cut pant using the TDCO method. Your review is really helpful for those who are planning to make them.
Thank you, such helpful information!
I love reading notes like this. Thank you for sharing, and I hope you consider sharing more in the future.
Your post was very interesting Norma and the pants do look great. The bias would make them figure-hugging along the sides and the bulk of an elastic waist seemed to ease in. Making notes while working on a project are very helpful, thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I think you’re exactly right. The bias cut gives them a closer, more fluid fit through the sides and the waist smooths in more than I expected. I’m glad you found the notes helpful!
Thank you Norma for your detailed notes on the sewing project itself, but my friends and I are wondering more about the bias. What happens in the crotch area? Normally this ends up being almost bias, and can stretch out a bit. I see from your layout that it becomes more straight grain,
is this part of the strange feeling when wearing? Did you hang the pants before hemming? I usually cut wider seam allowances for bias, what about you?
The pants look great on you, so we’re very interested!
Thank you, Faye! I haven’t noticed any stretching in the crotch area. As you observed, the most curved portion of the crotch seam runs closer to the straight grain and seems quite stable.
I think the strange feeling comes instead from having two legs moving independently on the bias in this midweight linen. A more fluid fabric, such as cupro, might move more easily and feel different.
I hemmed the pants immediately, and the hem has remained level. My thinking was that pant legs would be less susceptible to uneven dropping than something with a wider sweep, such as a skirt. If anything changes with wear, I can always adjust the hem later.
I used the pattern’s standard seam allowances rather than cutting them wider.